Why Engineered Wood Flooring is Best

Posted on 27th March 2011 in Engineered Wood Flooring
Engineered Wood Flooring
by NancyHugoCKD.com

Why Engineered Wood Flooring is Best

Wooden floors have been a common preference for many homeowners and interior designers over the years because it presents a warm, beautiful, and sophisticated look to any house that laminate and vinyl are unable to match. Nevertheless, wood flooring is now getting to be much more widely used for the reason that engineered wood flooring has created the choice both more effective and a lot less expensive so that it is an excellent option for every household. Entirely eco-friendly and with several finishes and colours available, engineered wood flooring is one of the top purchases that you could make for your home.

In brief, engineered wood flooring is flooring that are developed by layering solid wood and MDF together and then gluing and pushing the layers to produce a stable fit. Each of the layers is very carefully placed to make sure that a cross grain construction is produced which lends to its durability and good tolerance to water and dampness. This also helps prevent the wood flooring from warping over a period of time, which can be one of the major issues which home owners encounter with real wood floors. In fact, given the distinct characteristics of engineered wood flooring there’s been an influx in creative designs such as edging and radiator roses.

In addition there are a wide selection of widths and thickness to select from, though more often than not 3 and 5 ply flooring is bought with regards to engineered wood flooring. As stated before, its ability to deal with moisture which makes it the most appropriate flooring for many rooms where commonly you wouldn’t consider wood flooring to be a possibility such as cellars, and bath rooms. Mainly because as opposed to its solid wood counterpart, engineered wood is able to bear up to high volumes of traffic in addition to any differences (irrespective of exactly how dramatic) in temperature and moisture.

Engineered wood flooring is usually more favourable as a flooring option in many cases because it comes in pre-finished and finished styles, enabling the individual to easily install the floor in one step and it is instantly functional. In addition, since engineered wood floors are normally only about three-eighths to five-eighths of an inch thick, it makes it possible for them to be fitted on top of already present floor surfaces which makes installation a truly straightforward procedure. Therefore, rather than worrying about finishing, sanding, or removing the existing floor before an area is ready for use, engineered wood flooring could be installed in only one day.

As soon as it is the time to actually install engineered wood flooring into a house there is the selection between lengthier panels for installs that are ‘floating’ in style, or simply opt for the effortless tongue and groove boards, which can make it more realistic to think about installing the flooring without the need of any specialist assistance.

Lastly, there is a demand to take a close look at the veneer of the wood flooring that is being thought about considering that the thickness of the layers will denote how eye-catching the end product comes out to be.

The alternate options to engineered wood flooring are laminate and real wood. Each of which have their pros and cons.

Laminate floors appear to be similar in looks to real wood floors but are normally more cost effective and in some ways being more robust, and with distinctive finishes and beveling options available this kind of flooring can certainly still provide a real wood look at a portion of the cost . Because the laminate is not affixed to the sub floor, leveling is vital to ensuring a top quality finish. If the sub floor is bumpy the laminate floors may have a bouncy feel to it. Because some laminates simply click together without the need of adhesive it is quick to fit. Solid wood floors, as the name suggests, are a type of wood flooring that is solid wood all the way through. With its natural beauty as its principal focus, its drawback is that it might be susceptible to scrapes and dents though this isn’t essentially a serious problem in the long term due to the fact that real wood floors can be sanded down on many occasions.


Article from articlesbase.com

Related Engineered Wood Flooring Articles

comments: 0 » tags: , , ,

Propane Fire Pits or Wood Fire Pits – Which One to Choose?

Posted on 23rd March 2011 in Fire Pits
Fire Pits
by A Taridona

Propane Fire Pits or Wood Fire Pits – Which One to Choose?

Fire pits are patio containers designed for fires and open-air grilling. There are on the whole two kinds of fire pit designs, a wood pit that burns logs as well as other firewood and charcoal, and a gas pit that burns propane gas. Both the wood pits as well as gas pits have their own pros and cons. Which style is superior relies on the consumer’s particular desires and necessities.

A wood pit is excellent for open-air barbeques. If food drips into the pit, it is not a great deal of a trouble. On the other hand, with a gas alternative you might end up blockage up the gas burners. A wood pit is excellent for roasting marshmallows and other food stuffs above an open flame. The wood pit is as well obtainable in portable versions, so you can carry it with you on camping excursions.

A gas pit is joined to a propane gas supply and, therefore, is fixed permanently at a location for use in creating fires and can’t be moved. The gas pit is not right for outside cooking. In a lot of metropolis, and gradually more in the suburbs, local governments are outlawing wood burning because of fire risks and air quality concerns. In a few instances, wood fires are prohibited just during some periods associated to weather conditions like fire alerts or air quality alerts. As soon as there are concerns over the legitimacy of wood burning, the gas pit provides an excellent option. On the other hand, these pits, in particular those using high BTU can be costlier and somewhat riskier because of the use of a propane gas supply.

The gas pit is very easy to light up than the wood pit. With wood logs, you have to begin with a small kindle and develop the fire with smaller pieces of wood so as to light up the logs. Gas pits are easy to light up with a matchstick or gas lighter in addition newer models are self igniting. Besides, it is extremely simple to extinguish a gas pit, given that you just have to turn off the gas knob supplying the fire. Dousing a wood fire takes more efforts as you will need to extinguish the fires with water, which produces a great deal of smoke and vapors.

Propane gas is clean burning fuel accordingly there is no mess left after a gas pit fire. With a wood fire pit, you will have a lot of ashes, soot, and burnt wood and perhaps burnt food to clear out later. The wood pit as well involves that you maintain logs dry for trouble-free burning. A damp log can yet be used although is required to be set aside to dry off near the fire earlier than it will burn up. In addition wood pits have need of replenishing log supply. As a result choosing which style of fire pit is best for you will rely on your specific conditions, and which pit goes well with your requirements.

Peter is an expert in the field. For more information on fire pits, and propane fire pits Please visit: http://www.myfirepits.com/


Article from articlesbase.com

comments: 0 » tags: , , , ,

FAQ’s For Solid and Engineered Wood Flooring

Posted on 19th March 2011 in Engineered Wood Flooring
Engineered Wood Flooring
by FactoryHardwood

FAQ’s For Solid and Engineered Wood Flooring

What is Solid Wood Flooring?

Solid wood is exactly as it sounds, one piece of wood from top to bottom.

What is the difference between Laminate and Real Wood Floors?

Real Wood floors will age and mature with your property, this means that they will mark and dent more easily than a laminate would but this is part of the character of real wood floors and should not be viewed as a fault of the product. The shade of the wood surface will change with exposure to sunlight. Dependant on the species, it will either lighten or darken with age. The shade variation will only go on to a certain level and then cease. Any unexposed surface areas will eventually catch up with the colour differences once exposed.

Depending on the type of Real Wood floor (solid v’s engineered) it can sanded and re lacquered a number of times to prolong the life of the floor.

What is the difference between Solid Wood Flooring and Engineered Wood Flooring?

Each type of flooring has its specific use and choosing one over the other is dictated by your lifestyle and needs. Solid wood should be in a moisture-controlled environment. Solid wood (strip or plank effect) should be nailed down only and requires a wood sub floor. Solid wood can be glued to a variety of sub floor materials.

Engineered wood flooring consists of a multi-plied, cross-stacked backing with a real wood veneer (top layer of a selected species). Engineered wood flooring can be used on grade, above and below grade.

Engineered wood flooring is more dimensionally stable so it can be installed in areas where solid wood is not compatible due to moisture. Engineered wood (strip or plank effect) can be glued down over various sub floor. Some engineered woods (strip and plank ) can be nailed down which require a wood sub floor. Engineered woods can also be layed as a floating floor where the tongue and groove are glued together, but the floor is not anchored to the sub floor.

What is a “Floating Floor”?

Floating flooring is a flooring system laid down over a layer of underlay. So while the individual planks are glued together, the individual planks are not nailed or glued into the permanent floor. Instead, the planks form a system that “floats” over the layer of underlay. The underlay can be laid down over existing floors.

What is the required distance between the walls and the flooring boards?

When gluing a Real Wood to the subfloor an expansion gap of 15mm towards the walls is sufficient. With floating-floor installations for every metre of installation width the flooring requires a distance to the wall of at least 5mm, lengthwise an expansion gap of 15mm is sufficient.

Can I install the flooring using one pack after the other?

No, for a natural, harmonious looking installation is recommended to work with approximately 5 open packs of flooring and sort/choose the boards individually by colour.

How much wastage do I allow for?

Despite our strict sorting criteria and thorough quality control there may be certain material-specific peculiarities that customers come across during the on-site selection and installation process which may need to be cut out. Generally, we recommend adding 5% to the room’s sqm-total for cutting scrap.

Which kind of Real Wood flooring is right for me?

The range of choices is huge. According to personal taste and character of the room you can choose between different wood types, board sizes, surface finishes (lacquer-finish or oil-impregnation), surface structures (Antique, Distressed, Brushed), impressions (Block or Wideplank) and styles.

Does sunlight have any effects on the flooring?

Yes, any kind of wood will change its colour over time. During this process light-coloured wood types are not necessarily going to get lighter, dark wood types however will get darker. Every wood type has a characteristic aging process of its own and will react in its individual way.

What is the maximum load a Real Wood flooring can bear on a single point?

With very large loads (e.g. pianos, aquariums, storage heaters and the like) we always recommend gluing down as the installation method of choice.

Can Engineered Real Wood flooring that has been installed as a floating floor be sanded and resurfaced?

Yes, but be aware that every sanding process will take off about 1mm of the flooring’s wear-layer. Try not to use very heavy sanding machinery as the big weight of these machines may lead to the creation of “sanding waves”

How do I care for my oil-impregnated Real Wood floors?

Use Wood-Floor Soap for regular maintenance cleaning. Use a vacuum cleaner for lacquer-finished floors and damp-wipe only if needed.

Should your Floating Real Wood Flooring be installed under kitchen appliances?

In the kitchen, you should install the flooring under kitchen appliances, but be very careful when you slide the appliances over the floor. We recommend covering the flooring with something such as a spare rug to protect the flooring when you’re moving the appliances.

Are there methods that make it possible for ALL stains to be removed from Real Wood Floors or is it sometimes impossible for some stains to be removed?

Most stains don’t penetrate more than the sanding will remove. However, if you have a severe water stain, you may not be able to remove it.

How much of an irregularity (drop or rise) can there be in an existing sub floor before installing your Real Wood Flooring?

You can have a drop or rise up to 4mm over 2 linear metres.

Do Real Wood Floors increase home value?

Absolutely. Real Woods floors are recognised as one of the highest quality floors available and would increase the value of your home.

I am installing a Radiant Heat Floor System involving poly water tubing set in gypsum concrete that would be my sub-floor. Can your products be used with this type of floor heating system?

This installation is okay as long as the tubes don’t touch the wood. You also would have to use a laminated underlay vapour barrier between the concrete and the floor.

Can your Real Wood Flooring be installed over Linoleum and be used on stairs?

Real Wood flooring can be installed on the stairs, however it can be slippery.

You can install our floating Real Wood flooring over linoleum if the linoleum remains sound and tightly glued to the original sub floor.

Is there a type of Real Wood Flooring (e.g. Maple v’s Oak) that is more durable or longer lasting than another?

There isn’t much difference between Real Wood flooring wood types. The only negative on oak is it’s a rather porous wood, but it is a very hard durable wood, as are maple and beech. White oak is slightly harder than red oak. Your choice will really come down to aesthetics.

My concrete floor has a few low spots in it and I was wondering what to use to solve this problem?

Most building materials suppliers have a concrete levelling product. We suggest levelling any areas that are more than 3/16″ in variation. Make sure you use the underlay with a DPM before installing over concrete.

Do you have to install your Real Wood Flooring under existing cabinets?

Ideally, the Real Wood flooring would go under the cabinets. You can, however, cut around the cabinets if removing the cabinets would cause undue complications. Keep in mind, though, that if you were ever to change the cabinets, you could have a problem if the new cabinets weren’t the same size as the old cabinets.

Is it possible to install a Real Wood as a floating floor over concrete?

Real Wood floor is designed exactly for this kind of application. It requires an underlay with a DPM over the concrete floor. The floating floor system can go directly over that.

If there were a crack in the concrete, would it cause problems with a Floating Floor installation?

We recommend that any cracks in concrete be filled with concrete filler and sealed prior to installation. If it’s just a hairline crack you can simply cover the crack with duct tape. Keep in mind that underlay with a DPM must be installed prior to laying down the floor.

Important note prior to installation:
Relative Humidity should be maintained a 40-55% prior to installation and throughout the life span of the floor.

15mm expansion gap must be maintained around the perimeter of the floor.

Real Wood Flooring FAQs brought to you by the flooring experts at Wood Flooring 2U

If you would like any further information on solid wood flooring, engineered wood flooring, laminate wood flooring or advice on how to install a wooden floor, please don’t hesitate to get in touch, our knowledgeable team would be more than happy to help.


Article from articlesbase.com

Co-Founder Rob Banks hosts this overview of how to install an engineered floor. Take a look! learn.builddirect.com
Video Rating: 4 / 5

comments: 0 » tags: , , , ,

Wood Flooring: What is Oak Flooring?

Posted on 24th February 2011 in Solid Oak Wood Flooring
solid oak wood flooring
by timber_floors

Wood Flooring: What is Oak Flooring?

There is a wide array of wood flooring types available today but of them all, oak is the one that really stands out. Oak wooden flooring amounts to 80% of the combined sales of wood flooring, and you will find that because of its popularity, flooring retailers have more oak-based choices than other types. We also know that because of its popularity, the majority of homes have opted for solid oak floors, perhaps as much for the aesthetic qualities as for the great properties of it.

The Many Qualities of Oak Wood Flooring

•    Oak wood flooring is incredibly resilient which makes it ideal for flooring- it is not susceptible to wear and tear as some other woods can be, and has been known for its strong properties for centuries. The wood does not mark easily and will last for decades if looked after well. Any marking that does occur can easily be sanded, re-finished or re-coated numerous times to keep it looking new and fresh.

•    Oak wood flooring is still perceived by some as an upper class commodity so a certain kudos can be gained by having it in your home. Maybe this goes some way to explaining why oak flooring has been, and continues to be so popular.

•    Oak wood can be obtained from China, Russia, France, Hong Kong and England; the majority is available from sustainable forests, so you can rest assured that your new floor will not put the environment at a disadvantage.

The Aesthetic Qualities of Oak Wood Flooring

When people think of oak floors, they tend to think of the sandy coloured floorboards that can be seen in older houses. This doesn’t fit in that well with many homes, however, which does tend to put people off. But thanks to lacquering and varnishing, oak floors can come in a variety of warm, rich colours and hues, including red and brown as well as the traditional sandy colour. The choice means that oak can fit into any room of your house creating a sense of space, depth and light, and help you achieve the effect you are looking for. Oak also has naturally occurring knots and burrs that give it character. Quality oak flooring will bring out this character to its best effect.

Oak flooring is usually nailed to the sub floor for stability, although ‘floating flooring systems’ can be bought if you are not quite ready for permanent flooring. Most boards have bevelled edges or differing widths, to fit easily in your home. Oak flooring comes in a wide range of qualities and prices so you can easily choose the one that best suits your home, budget and requirements. It is no longer ridiculously expensive; oak is now at an affordable price. Whatever you want and need, it can be found at suppliers across the country.

Written by Emma Bamford on behalf of Factory Direct FlooringWood Flooring


Article from articlesbase.com

Related Solid Oak Wood Flooring Articles

comments: 0 » tags: ,

Solid Wood Flooring

Posted on 19th February 2011 in Solid Oak Wood Flooring
solid oak wood flooring
by Jacob Davies

Solid Wood Flooring

In any house the flooring plays an important role in its inner décor and that is the reason why many people give priority to quality flooring because they are well aware of this fact. As we know that there is advancement and development in various fields around the world similarly the flooring industry is also on the path of development and you can find a huge variety of floors so it becomes a problem for a common man that what type of flooring he should prefer for his house. Wood floor is undoubtedly a common name to the flooring industry and a number of people prefer to use wood flooring in their homes as it is known to add warm tones and dramatic finish to any space. Visiting a flooring market would let you know that solid wood flooring is available in lots of varieties. The colors and designs available in them are just stunning.

Oak wood floors are the ones that are quite common these days. Europe and America are considered as big industries of oak wood floors as they are the chief buyers as well as producers of the said floors. You can find oak in different types like red, white and European oak; all of these types have their own hardness, grain and color characteristics.

The cherry wood floors are also categorized among the popular flooring options and the main reason of their immense popularity is their striking grain markings and solid composition. Another advantage of these floors is that they are highly resistant to damage. So you can go for this type of flooring and we hope the flooring would not disappoint you.

Solid wood flooring is durable, tough and long lasting and you can definitely extend their life period if you take special care of it by regular cleaning. This will not only prolong its life period but will also help to maintain its original shine and luster. When you will do the required maintenance on regular basis and keep cleaning your solid wood flooring every now and then this would also help to retain the beautiful look of your inner décor. It is also advised to use doormat at the doors of all the rooms because this will help to keep dirt, dust particles and grit at bay, otherwise the dirt and grit will soon ruin the original beauty of your wood floor by making it dirty and faded.

Check out the new varieties of wood floors and best cheap safety flooring.


Article from articlesbase.com

More Solid Oak Wood Flooring Articles

comments: 0 » tags: , ,

Are Childrens Wood Beds The Best Choice?

Posted on 13th February 2011 in Children’s Beds
Children’s Beds
by JustDerek

Are Childrens Wood Beds The Best Choice?

Shopping for childrens wood beds shouldn’t be taken lightly, a personal touch should be considered when making your final decision. A bed is the most personal furniture in the house, but more special in your child’s bedroom. Childrens wood beds can last much longer than metal beds, and are very easy to maintain, wood furnishings leave a room with a comfortable and calming homey feeling. In addition, children wood beds are fashionable, and sturdy, and inviting to look at.

There is no shortage of variety in childrens wood beds to choose from, some people may ask, why buy a childrens wooden furniture? When comparing wood beds to metal beds, wooden beds are made from natural material, also wooden beds have a calming and warm feeling, unlike the cold feel that emanates from beds constructed of metal.

There are some people who are concerned about buying wooden beds for the reason they feel furniture made from wood production are destroying the natural environment. To answer this concern, the fact is that most beds for children and wooden furniture are constructed with pine wood. Pine is a common wood readily harvested from local sustained forests, and have no ill effect on the environment.

Childrens wood beds give any bedroom a sense of class, especially if the wood is varnished. It doesn’t matter if the childrens wood bed is a twin bed, a single bed or a wooden bunk bed, your children will love it. Bunk beds are hugely popular with kids, children love to play on and around bunk beds, and it becomes a joy to sleep in them. Additionally space can be saved with a childrens wood bunk beds as compared to having two single or twin beds in a room, and also give more room for your children to play.

Childrens are unique furniture, and are normally strong and nice to look at. As the years pass, beds for children are long lasting and may out live metal beds that can rust if not maintained. Not many things look as nice as a varnished piece of wooden furniture, and beds for children can give an alluring feel to a room.

Manufacturers of childrens beds have various designs, they offer accessories like built in drawers into bed frame or into the headboard. Many wood beds designs are creative, as an example is the wooden loft bed, space under the bed can be utilized as a storage space, making more space than a bunk bed.

For more information, guides and resources on childrens wooden beds, visit the #1 child furniture resource on the net: Childrens Bed


Article from articlesbase.com

Amazing Designer Kids Rooms by SWEETDREAMBED.COM (302) 655-1845 Princess Rooms, Luxury Childrens Decor, Kids Decor, Princess Room Decor, Luxury Kids Bedding, Custom Kids Bedding, Designer Kids Rooms, Kids Beds, Girls Beds, Boys Beds, Childrens Furniture, Luxury Princess Decor, Interior Design,…
Video Rating: 0 / 5

comments: 0 » tags: , , , ,

How To Fit Solid Wood Flooring

Posted on 9th February 2011 in Solid Wood Flooring
Solid Wood Flooring
by timber_floors

How To Fit Solid Wood Flooring

How to fit Solid Wood flooring

It is important to start any flooring installation by firstly planning out the room and deciding where to start. Many rooms offer what at first appear to be very complicated situations to overcome. Don’t worry too much about these, all situations have a solution which are covered in this section, alternatively further information can be found in the handy hints and tips section.

Planning:-

When first presented with a room or area which is to be fitted with Solid wood flooring some key factors will help you to decide where to start your installation. Door ways, shape of room and locations of main window are all factors to take into consideration as well as the subfloor (existing floor which is to be covered with Solid wood floor) here are some rules and suggestions:-

Rules –

When laying Solid wood flooring on top of existing floor boards always lay the planks at 90 degrees to the floor boards

It is important not to end up with a piece of flooring at the end of a row which is less than 5cm in length or to have the last row less than 5cm in width. To avoid this measure the room’s width and length and divide the results by the dimensions of the flooring being installed. It may then be necessary to start the first row with a half plank or even to cut the width down to accommodate the area

An expansion joint will need to be inserted into any floor area which is larger than 8m in length or in width, in effect creating two floor areas

Acclimatise the boards in the room they are to be laid in for a minimum of 48 hours. The room should have a relative humidity of between 45% – 65% and a temperature of between 18C – 20C

Suggestions –

It is generally accepted that the best visual effect when installing Solid wood flooring is to lay the boards in the direction of the light source; so towards the main window (not forgetting rule 1 above)

It is also suggested that the floor should run along the longest wall of the room giving the best overall effect. (again take note of rule 1 above)

When laying a floor across a door way it is best practise to start at this point and work back into the room

Installation guide:-

Once your planning stage is complete it is time to prepare the room starting with the subfloor. It is vital that the subfloor is in optimal condition to allow the new floor to perform as expected and help to maintain its longevity

Subfloor preparation –

The main factors to consider are the smoothness, dryness and overall levelness of the floor. If the subfloor is uneven then the new floor will not last long as the pressure on the joints will cause the boards to separate

For concrete floors make sure that they are dry (it takes approx. 1 day per 1mm of wet concrete to be considered dry enough for a Solid wood floor to be installed). The relative humidity of the floor is also vital it should not exceed 85%

For wooden subfloors, ensure there is no movement in the floor. Any loose floor boards should be nailed or screwed securely in place. WBP (water and boil proof) ply can be used over existing floorboards to provide a suitable subfloor surface

All floors must be smooth and level

Finally all debris must be cleaned and the surface of the subfloor must be free from dust and other contaminants

Installation Techniques:-

There are three main ways to install a Solid Wood floor,

Secret nailing

Gluing directly to the subfloor

Installing the Solid wood onto a self adhesive underlay

All of these methods are perfectly acceptable methods of installation for a domestic application, each method has its benefits and draw backs. It is often the subfloor which will help to determine which installation is best suitable.

Installing the floor planks – Secret nailing –

Secret nailing a wooden floor is a method usually chosen when the existing subfloor is wood or when installing directly to joists. Solid wood flooring should have a minimum thickness of 21mm if it is to be fitted directly to joists.

It is possible to use the secret nail technique when the subfloor is concrete or screed. A damp proof membrane (DPM) needs to be placed over the concrete followed by an 18 – 24mm WBP plywood sheet.

Start the first row by loose laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

Once you are happy with the alignment, ‘face nail’ the boards into the subfloor at intervals of 250-300mm or onto every joist. Face nailing is nailing through the top of the planks into the subfloor, counter sink the nails and fill in the dimples with wood filler.

Depending on the tools used and the width of the flooring installed, it may be necessary to face nail two or three rows before secret nailing can begin.

Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)

Keeping the nails at a distance of 250 – 300mm, secret nail the planks into the subfloor. Secret nailing is a method where planks are secured through the tongue of the boards at a 45 degree angle and counter sunk to allow the groove of the next board to fit tightly. Mechanical nail guns are the best way to achieve professional results and make installation a lot easier.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

The last few rows will also have to be face nailed as there will not be enough room for secret nailing.

Installing the floor planks – Direct gluing –

Direct gluing is a suitable method of installation when fixing on top of a concrete or screed subfloor. One benefit is that the overall height of the new floor is kep to a minimum as there is no need to install an 18mm WBP plywood base. It is also suitable over existing wood floors which are suitably flat and firm.

The subfloor must be flat, firm and level; if necessary a levelling compound may be used. It is important to remember that all subfloors must be dry.

A liquid damp proof membrane must be laid first and allowed to dry.

Using a suitable wood flooring adhesive apply an even coat to the subfloor. A notched trowel held at between 450 and 900 is the best method for this.

Start the first row by laying the boards parallel to the wall allowing a 15mm expansion gap. Begin by resting the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size.

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

After two rows have been successfully installed weigh them down while the glue sets. Any glue which has seeped through to the surface should be removed immediately.

Continue laying rows of planks down ensuring that you keep the 15mm expansion gap around the perimeter of the room. Stagger the boards so that the end joint of each row is further than 150mm apart (brick bond)

Tension straps may be used to hold rows tightly together whilst the glue sets.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

Installing the floor planks – Self adhesive underlay –

Solid flooring can also be laid as a floating floor using a self adhesive underlay. The boards are adhered directly to the underlay which holds the floor together. This method can be used for all subfloor types (following the rules set out above that subfloors be flat, firm and dry) the benefits of the self adhesive underlay is that the room can be used immediately with no drying time required for glue to set.

Lay the underlay at 90 degrees to the direction of the boards ensuring that there are no gaps between sheets but equally important is that the underlay does not overlap. When using the underlay over concrete, first lay a DPM with the edges overlapped by 20cm.

Peel back the foil from the underlay by the width of 2 ½ planks and fold over.

Using the supplied spare foil, lay this over the exposed adhesive surface of the underlay with enough surplus foil facing the wall to fold back over the top of the underlay

Place the fitting wedges up against the wall to give you a 15mm gap. This is vital as the Solid boards will expand and contract after installation and if this gap is not present the floor will lift and buckle in the room. The wedges are removed after installation is complete and the gap is covered with either skirting or beading

Position the first row along the wall and wedges allowing for the expansion gap and ensure that this is perfectly straight. (if the first row is not perfectly straight the entire floor will be ruined) At the end of the first row you will undoubtedly need to cut a board to length. A good way to measure the length of the board required is to rotate the loose board by 180 degree (facing upwards) so that the tongue is facing the tongue of the previous row. Rest the board next to the first row then mark and cut the boards to size

(NB. When cutting Solid flooring ensure that a new blade is used)

Now lay a second row, this will help to stabilise the two rows whilst the foil is removed as well as help to provide a straight line

Once you are satisfied the rows are straight and tightly fitted, peel back the loose foil sheet which will expose the adhesive underlay to the solid wood flooring thus holding the boars in place.

The loose foil may now be discarded. The remaining attached foil will be your work area where new rows will be rested on until you are happy that they are tightly fitted.

Continue to fit the rows down and peel away the foil to fix the boards into place.

The final row can be measured and marked to size using the following technique; firstly place the board to be marked directly on top of the last row laid. Place another plank on top of the loose plank but this time have the top plank pushed up against 15mm wedges against the wall to give you the correct measurement allowing for expansion. (be careful not to move the board to be marked) now draw a line along the edge of the top plank marking the board underneath.

Obstacles –

There are various obstacles you will come across when installing any flooring. The trick is to identify these at the beginning and plan when to tackle them. You do not want to end up at an obstacle where you may need to remove some flooring you have already installed to enable you to deal with the situation.

Door frames are inevitable as almost all rooms will have these. It is necessary to remove a section of architrave and door jam to allow the Solid to be fitted under them, thus hiding the expansion gap away from sight. To do this you will need to place a piece of underlay and an upturned board against the door frame. Using a long saw pressed against the Solid floor begin to cut into the door frame. Make your cut until you reach the wall behind the door frame. Do not worry about cutting into the skirting as the beading will cover this. Remove as much of the door frame as possible so as to allow the right expansion room for the Engineered.

Measure and mark the Solid to fit and then install. When faced with a room where there are doors on both sides of a room and the Solid is installed across the door way it may be necessary to use glue to fit a board at one of these doors. As it is impossible to install the board at 30 degrees and still slide it under the architrave you will need to remove some of the locking joint on the previous row.

Remove the lip along the tongue of the long edge using a sharp chisel. Apply glue to this edge. Slide the board to be fitted under the door architrave and then pull it back into place along the previous row.

Radiator pipe covers can either protrude through the floor or from the wall. If they are floor mounted then the Solid will need to be cut around the pipes with an expansion gap. Measure and mark the position of the pipes on the Solid board and cut the holes out using a 32mm spade drill bit. This should allow for the 15mm pipe and an expansion gap. Then remove the excess Solid to allow the board to be placed against the pipes. The area of Solid removed should represent a keyhole shape. Keep the off cuts of the Solid as these can be glued back into place once the plank is installed.

Real Wood Flooring FAQs brought to you by the flooring experts at Wood Flooring 2U

If you would like any further information on solid wood flooring, engineered wood flooring, laminate wood flooring or advice on how to install a wooden floor, please don’t hesitate to get in touch, our knowledgeable team would be more than happy to help.


Article from articlesbase.com

Related Solid Wood Flooring Articles

comments: 0 » tags: , ,

Wood Flooring. Reclaimed Vs. Old Growth Wood. Northern Va, Antique/Reclaimed Wood Floor Specialists. Madera Floors

Posted on 7th February 2011 in Wood Flooring

Wood Flooring. Reclaimed Vs. Old Growth Wood. Northern Va, Antique/Reclaimed Wood Floor Specialists. Madera Floors

 

In the wood flooring industry, the term ‘old growth’ continues to be the subject of interpretation and controversy. At Madera Floors we make it our business to know more about wood than any other company, and to educate our customers so that they can make more informed purchasing decisions. We frequently address questions about ‘old growth’ trees, especially in relation to reclaimed timber. In fact, we have talked with many consumers who thought the terms meant the same thing and were misled into thinking their old growth flooring was the same as our antique reclaimed flooring. Here we define some of the terms and address questions surrounding the mystery of ‘old growth’.

Old Growth refers to established forests that, up until the time trees are cut, have had little or no disruption. Advocates of cutting old growth timbers suggest that pruning selected trees is good for the forest. We disagree. Old growth forests maintain themselves through a natural process that does not include cutting into the delicate fabric woven by nature.

How Old is “Old” Growth? The actual age that determines “old” growth varies depending on the specie, but it refers to the age at which a tree has reached its maturity. For an eastern white pine, it is between 130-150 years, while many of the hardwoods reach maturity at 80 years. But, what is most important is that at maturity and thereafter the old growth tree is still contributing to the ecosystem in which it lives.

Virgin Growth refers to dense stands of various species of hardwood or pine trees that are indigenous to their habitat; they have never been harvested. Many virgin forests are protected, but tragically there are also many that are still being cut today for purposes that include mass-produced wood flooring. Essentially, virgin timber is old growth that has never been cut, while old growth may or may not be virgin timber.

Reclaimed Wood is also referred to as Antique wood, and for us the terms are interchangeable when describing the wood we use to make our floors. We agree that old growth flooring is beautiful; however, we prefer to reuse this majestic timber that was originally cut to build structures that have shaped our history in the United States and in interesting places all over the world.

“Deconstruction” is the core of the reclaimed wood industry. The emphasis is on utilizing materials that have outlived their usefulness and would otherwise be demolished, discarded or left to decay. Deconstruction helps to close the resource loop that we now realize is so valuable in this world of finite resources.In recycling this precious material there is a significant positive environmental impact.

Deconstruction differs from ‘demolition’ in that it is a painstaking process involving the selective dismantlement of building components. We work with experts who carefully manage dismantling projects to preserve the grand dimensions of the beams, posts and floor joists; this will be reflected in your floor as we work to maintain the superior widths and lengths of these ancient timbers.

Demolition, on the other hand, is unfortunately the more common method of taking down a building. Implosion or ‘wrecking-ball’ style demolition is relatively inexpensive and offers a quick method of clearing sites for new structures. Consequently this process results in significant waste and unusable material.

For more information please visit our website at

www.maderafloors.com or our blog www.maderafloors.blogspot.com

Thanks

Madera Floors is a state of the art wood floor company which serves all of Northern Virginia, Maryland and D.C. We are growing to encompass a staff of highly trained craftsmen who execute each job skillfully and meticulously.


Article from articlesbase.com

Find More Wood Flooring Articles

comments: 0 » tags: , , , , , , , , ,

Laying Reclaimed Wood Flooring In Your Home

Posted on 31st January 2011 in Sold Wood Floors
sold wood floors
by stacy michelle

Laying Reclaimed Wood Flooring In Your Home

Having reclaimed wood flooring adds something special to your home, bringing authenticity to an older home renovation, or instant ambience with a rich patina for new construction. There are also a number of advantages to having a wood floor, beyond the conservation aspects of using reclaimed boards when laying the floor. For those who are seeking authentic reclaimed wood flooring, there are some really great products on the market today.

About reclaimed wood flooring

Reclaimed floors are simply floors made with repurposed wood. When an older home is being restored or refurbished, wood floors that are in keeping with the historicity of the structure are generally seen as more desirable than a modern floor which may take away from the character of the home. If you have an older home, you may also want to do any reno-work to the home in such a way that your work is in keeping with the character and period of the home. In this instance, the use of reclaimed wood is a good option to achieve an authentic finish.

The benefits of a wood floor

Wood floors are a good option if you require something which is durable and which adds to the appeal of your home. A wood floor can be easier to keep clean than carpets, as it is finished with a durable coating which protects the wood from stains and spills that would typically ruin carpet flooring. When choosing wood there are different types of wood, with hardwood being the most beautiful and wear-resistant. The downside of this is that it is more expensive, while pine flooring although slightly less hard is often less expensive. Ultimately, when choosing a type of reclaimed wood for your home, the type of wood already in your home may influence what type of wood you choose. The one surprising trend is the emergence of engineered reclaimed flooring.This involves a process where a thick layer of actual reclaimed wood flooring is bonded to multi-ply wood sheet.This greatly reduces the cost of the reclaimed wood flooring, and also results in a greater yield of the antique flooring.

Where to find materials for reclaimed flooring

There are a number of sources for reclaimed floor materials. If you are going to arrange to have the floors laid, but find the materials yourself, then you may want to look for materials being sold from schools, churches and other larger, old buildings that are undergoing refurbishment. The advantage of finding materials from larger buildings is that there may be more longer lengths of wood which can be cut to fit. However, it may be nearly impossible to find a company willing to mill the flooring for you as all reclaimed wood has to be hand inspected to remove metal from it.the old nails etc will cause major damage to the milling equipment.Alternatively, you may find it simpler to speak with a company that specializes in reclaimed wood flooring. You may also find that if you discuss the option of using recycled materials that are in keeping with your home, the company laying the floor may also be able to source the materials for your home improvement project.

With a bit of planning, it is possible to find the materials you need to ensure you have an attractive and authentic wooden floor. The sourcing of materials to achieve the look you desire is often much simpler than you may imagine. Finding a professional who is familiar with laying reclaimed wood flooring may also help you when it comes to acquiring the materials to carry out home renovations and improvements.

For gathering more info about reclaimed wood flooring or about wood floor, please check out these links.


Article from articlesbase.com

comments: 0 » tags: , , , ,

Solid Wood Flooring in the Home

Posted on 17th January 2011 in Solid Oak Wood Flooring
solid oak wood flooring
by Joost J. Bakker IJmuiden

Solid Wood Flooring in the Home

A solid wood floor can add warm tones and a stunning finish to any room. Constructed with pieces of solid wood they have tongue and groove sides so they can be easily connected together. Each piece has a different grain which combines to form a unique look whenever it is used. There is a huge variety of solid wood floors available with many types of wood species, colours and widths available at hardwood flooring suppliers.

The most popular option is oak wood flooring. Europe and America are both the main consumer and producer of this type of hardwood flooring. Oak is available in various types including red, white and European oak, each with their own hardness, grain and colour characteristics.

A cherry wood floor is another popular choice due to its striking grain markings and solid composition. Like other wood floors it is highly resistant to damage. Over time cherry wood flooring darkens from a pale pink colour to warm dark red tone

Exotic hardwoods can give a room a unique look are now readily available at major hardwood flooring suppliers. They can be found for sale alongside other classic real wood flooring such as maple, oak and ash. Real wood flooring can be purchased in pre-finished or unfinished styles. When laying unfinished wood flooring the product can be recoated many times to increase its life and make it last considerably longer than other flooring options.

When laying solid wood floors, begin with a flat, dry and solid sub floor such as concrete, wood or cork. Carpet is not suitable as a sub base and must be removed. Any deviations in level should be rectified with suitable floor filler. A plastic barrier to stop moisture is recommended for floors that are being installed on concrete or in damp areas. Harwood flooring should also be allowed time to acclimatise before it is set down by leaving it the room for several days. For a bathroom wood floor contact you local flooring supplier for suitable product support.

If you are using a wood floor sub base the solid wood floor should be installed at right angles to the original floorboards to aid strength and stability. An expansion area around the perimeter of the room is also recommended to allow for contractions and expansions throughout the winter and summer months. This expansion gap can be covered with skirting boards or a cover strip.

Solid wood floors are tough and hard wearing and by taking care of them their life can be prolonged. Keep gravel, dirt and grit at bay by using a doormat outside and inside the front door. Regular sweeping and vacuuming will take care of any dirt that does settle on the floor and will reduce scratches and everyday wear and tear. Avoid wearing stiletto heels on solid wood floors and if possible only wear indoor shoes or slippers on its surface.

Nothing comes close to the finish that can be achieved with a solid wood floor. By installing solid wood flooring the value of a home often increases and it can give a home the edge over similar property on the market. Solid wood floors are stain resistant and do not trap dust so are especially good for allergy sufferers. There is a wide range of tones, styles and prices on the market so whether you are looking for a cheap wood floor or the ultimate in hardwood flooring, you are sure to find the right match for your room.

Rami Nseir is a consultant for UK Carpets Direct who are specialist UK suppliers of hardwood flooring & laminate floors.


Article from articlesbase.com

comments: 0 » tags: , , ,
« Previous